It is the big question that many beginners ask after spending hours trying to reach the wall of the wave without success. We give you some surf tips that can help you get through this frustrating phase.
It is often a feeling of frustration, when you realize that you are rowing, you get up and "surf" the foam, which has already lost all its strength and its ability to be surfed. In truth, that transition from “foam” surfer to “wall” surfer is one of the many transitions surfing offers on the path to learning. But without a doubt, it is one of the most complex.
To make it clearer, the PROBLEM is the following:
- You paddle with all your might, the wave pushes you, you feel its force and momentum, you also feel how you "lower the wave" in a prone position (lying on the board).
- When the moment comes when you feel your board firm and stable, and you decide to stand up, you do it with difficulty and in 3 counts.
- You are on your feet, feeling like the king of the world, but you immediately realize that you are surfing a wave that has already broken. Basically what is known as the "foam" of the wave. DOES IT SOUND FAMILIAR TO YOU?.
Basically and to summarize, the gap that exists between surfing the foam and surfing the wall of a wave, is given by the following factors or mistakes that you may be making. Take a look at these surf tips to correct them:
1. INSUFFICIENT ROWING:
Your paddling is your letter of introduction to the wave, it tells you who you are and how far you are willing to go. A weak paddling does not allow the board + body set to break the inertia in which they find themselves. Therefore, the speed that you will reach when the wave arrives will be less than if you were already moving before it (the wave) reached you.
Very important is that your board (and you) are already in motion before the wave reaches you. For that, a good paddling is required. Join the fingers of your hands, plunge your hands deep into the water and become aware that you must move forward. Train!
2. VERY SLOW POP UP:
Normally the beginner rises in two or more counts. The correct pop-up is in only one. You must go from a prone position to a standing position in less than a second, in a agile movement, fast but with CONTROL (topic for another chapter)
When your pop-up is very slow, even though you have paddled correctly and you are on the wall of the wave, the wave will close and break before you can stand up on its wall. The time it takes for a wave to break depends on the characteristics of the bottom of the beach and the place where you have decided to take the wave. In general, it is a quick process, which is why a pop-up with the same characteristics is required.
3. THE POSITION OF YOUR BODY:
Ok, now you paddled hard, you got up nimbly and you are on a clean wave still in formation. Normally the beginner in this situation lowers the wave standing up and continues forward, perpendicular to the edge of the beach, that is, there is no lateral movement and therefore, there is no possibility of "surfing" the wave, since inevitably if you do not make that lateral movement "looking for" the wall of the wave, it breaks and you will continue straight forward again surfing in the foam
Another of the fundamental surf tips for your learning, is that where your body and your board go once standing on a wall depends fundamentally on where your gaze is directed. It sounds strange, but your look is the element that will finally direct the movement of your head and then the movement of your body. "The body goes where the eyes look" and that is really important not only in the beginning stages of surfing (also topic for another chapter in this section).
4. YOUR TABLE:
It seems that those who surf those giant colored school boards are doomed to surf the foam forever. The truth is that another very important point to learn to surf waves is your board, and specifically the RAILS (or edges) of your board. Rails are the edge of a surfboard, which usually have a lower profile, or thinner than the rest of your board. This is fundamental so that your board "rails" like a real train on its tracks on the wall of the wave, so as not to leave it until it reaches the shore (or until the trip lasts). Look at the profile of your rails, do they meet these characteristics? if you have a table FlysurfDon't worry, all the models have this feature, with their low-profile shaped rails, which are buried like true knives in the wave, which allow railing and fine tuning on the wall.
I hope friends, these simple surf tips are useful to you. Keep surfing, reading the sea, and remember to re-read those tips just before entering the water and above all put them into practice! A hug.
Team Flysurf. #SurfBetterNow!